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Saturday, December 29, 2007

Christmas!

Sorry this is so late, but I've been working a pretty full schedule this past week and haven't gotten around to updating this thing until now.

It was good to see many of you Wyszynskis over the Skype video chat last week, and it was very kind of those of you who sent me e-mails, or gifts or cards, or who called me. It's really comforting knowing that all off you are thinking of me.

I had an interesting Christmas here. Never before have I had a sunny, warm day on December 25th, but I rather enjoyed it. Luke and I heard about a Catholic mass here in Linko from one of our neighbors at a Christmas potluck we had last Sunday night. We went looking for it after we got off of work on Monday night, but it was so rainy and cold that we decided it wan't the best idea to be riding our scooters around in that muck after dark. We decided to get into a taxi and head into Taipei to attend the English vigil mass at Holy Family in Da'an.

It was a nice service with priests from Nigeria, India, and Taiwan giving the various parts of the mass, and there were many Filipinos, Africans, European, and Latin Americans in attendance.

The next day, we didn't have any plans of our own for the day we took off work, so after opening our presents fro home we went with some friends to a barbecue in Taipei. Most of the people there were South African, and so the day passed in a mixture of English and Afrikaans, with much wine and laughter and really good food.

Luke and I kept discussing how it didn't feel at all like Christmas without the snow, Christmas trees, and close friends and family, but it was still a fun day, and a worthy way to spend Christmas given the myriad of other places we could have been.

I hope you all had a happy and joyful Christmas as well.

Christmas 2007

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Christmas Countdown

Christmas Time has come into full effect. Hess Linko had its Kindergarten Christmas parents' day on Saturday, and I really enjoyed seeing and talking to the whole Wyszynski clan via live tele-satellite-internet-video-web-chat2.0. It looks like you all had a great time, and I wish I could have been there.

We don't have any plans just yet. I think Luke and I will head into Taipei after work on Monday and go to the English vigil mass at Holy Family Cathedral in Da'an. On Christmas day, we're taking a day off of work, and most likely going into Taipei again for a nice mid-day dinner with some friends. Expect photos.

Just in time for Christmas Vigil Mass, Luke got a new polo shirt from a nearby night market. I got him to model it for a photo.


Tuesday, December 18, 2007

It is foggy today.

I woke up this morning and was surprised when I looked out the window to find that Linko was gone. It just wasn't there. I could barely see the apartments across the street, and the whole scene looked like something out of the spooky Silent Hill games on Playstation. I shot some quick photos on my way in to school.









My glasses got all foggy too.


Share any cool fog photos you have in the comments!

Thursday, December 13, 2007

China doesn't like its products to be copied, Rest of world rolls its eyes

I saw this article online today and it made me chuckle.


BEIJING (Reuters) - Supposedly ancient Chinese terracotta warriors on show at a German museum are fakes, China confirmed Thursday, condemning the organizers for cheating the public.


The Hamburg Museum of Ethnology has offered refunds to about 10,000 visitors who have already viewed the "Power in Death" exhibition since it opened on November 25 as police probed the authenticity of the warriors.


The display of eight clay warrior figures, two horses and 60 smaller objects has remained open, with a sign stating that its authenticity was in dispute.


The cultural heritage administration in Shaanxi province, home to the 2,000-year-old clay army, said it had been "outraged" because it had not sent any original terracotta warriors to Germany recently.



Oh, boo hoo. So someone in Germany didn't do their homework, and the Chinese are upset because people are paying to see terracotta soldiers that aren't authentic.

The hypocrisy here is staggering. China, perhaps the world's worst offender when it comes to breaking copyright laws and respecting patents, is accusing another nation of ripping off its ancient artwork. Western film and music companies, clothing designers, electronics manufacturers, and countless other industries are losing millions a day to Chinese copycats, and they are raising a stink over eight statues that may or may not be fake.

I hope bloggers in China can see past this blatant attempt at anti-Western propaganda and expose their readers to the truth. Probably not, though.

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Last Weekend

Here are some photos from last weekend. I had a good time. No plans for this weekend. Anyone in Taiwan reading this should let me know what's happening. I'd like to stay in Taipei, but I could be persuaded to travel (Kaohsiung, Taijung.)









Luke and his new friend

Monday, December 10, 2007

Do you know the way to Taipei?

Uncle Robert just left this morning, and after a long and boring day of training at headquarters, I can tell you about our weekend.

I picked him up from a practically deserted airport on Saturday afternoon, and after getting him unpacked in Linko, we headed into Taipei to visit the notorious snake alley. We met a friend of mine in the station, and she helped us around the city. Unfortunately none of us knew what to do or where to go, and so after visiting the snake merchants (and not being too impressed) we went looking for something to eat. After wandering for a while, we found ourselves at SOGO department store, eating a pretty good Taiwanese dinner.

We met some other English teachers at a bar, and came home at a reasonable hour. The next day we went to Beitou, an area of the city renown for its hot springs. We took a few hours and soaked in the hot sulfur water before coming back to Linkou. Luke and I had our Chinese lesson, and we went for a teppanyaki dinner. No photos just yet, but here are some videos on YouTube that other people made that are pretty close to what we did.

MRT (the description says an earthquake happens during the clip):


SOGO has women in the elevator to push the buttons for you. Classsssssy.:


Beitou hot springs (Hell Valley):

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Chinese Lessons

After a few months of slacking, I finally started taking Mandarin lessons last month. Luke and I get a private tutor once a week to come and teach us the basics of the language.

We're picking up some everyday vocabulary, and we're beginning to learn BoPoMoFo, a method for writing the sounds of Mandarin phonetically. So far, we haven't learned enough to express ourselves as well as we'd like, but we are making a lot of progress. I can ask simple questions like "What is this?" "How much does this cost?" "What is your name/age/phone number?" and "I don't understand." In other words, I speak about as much Chinese as my most basic classes speak English.

It is nice even knowing a little, and I am excited about learning, but I definitely have a long way to go. I will hopefully be getting a Chinese name soon, so I'll be sure to share that once I decide what it will be.

Saturday, December 1, 2007

Crash

I'll keep this brief because it hurts to type.

I wrecked my chopper. I was out driving yesterday afternoon with Luke, Melanie, and Jerry, and I didn't brake hard enough making a downhill turn on a mountain road and my scooter slid off the road. Fortunately, I fell off the scooter before it crashed into a wall, unfortunately I missed the soft berm and skidded along the pavement.

I skinned my left hand pretty badly, and my right elbow and knee. I may have a mild sprain to my left shoulder, and the bridge of my nose has a couple scratches from my helmet visor hitting me.

After I stood up, I felt to make sure I was all still there. My jacket was ripped to shreds, and my jeans had a couple of new holes, but the damage to my body was thankfully non life threatening. I realized I couldn't move my left arm up to unbuckle my helmet, and that scared me. After putting in a lot of effort, I finally raised my arm and felt a triumphant pop as my arm righted itself back into its socket. Success!

Of course, I took some photos after the wreck:


Minutes before the crash, we stop to take in a view and strategize.


The scene of the crash.


I still had a sense of humor, and I was still standing.

WARNING: EXTREME GORE!!!
(click to supersize)




After the crash, the rest of the group came back and we assessed the damage. My Yamaha Fuzzy 125 is in roughly the same banged up shape it was in before the accident, and my injuries didn't look too severe.

We got back on our steeds and drove slowly back to Linko, where Melanie helped clean the gravel out of my wounds and put some antiseptic and iodine on them. Thanks Mel!

I spent the rest of the day self medicating with Taiwan Beer and amoxicillin.

The lesson I learned: Be extra cautious driving on any road, but most of all on steep gradients and sharp turns. Also, always wear a helmet. Always.

Thursday, November 29, 2007

Leofoo Village

Yay, I got the net back up and running. Now I can watch more YouTube videos of people falling off ladders or finding leprechauns in trees or other such nonsense.

Last weekend, out branch took a trip to Leofoo Village Theme Park. Getting up at 7am on a Saturday is something I don't usually do, so I had to have been fairly curious to drag my ass down to school and get on a bus that early. The ride there was foreboding-- the bus we took came with an 'entertainer', a guy that told (supposedly offensive) jokes in Mandarin, and led the group in some KTV (karaoke.) I was planning on sleeping another hour.

When we got there, it was still too early to go in, so we mulled around the parking lot for a while before going in.



The original plan was to stick with the people from our branch. That all went right out the window when they made a beeline for the park's wettest water ride. Being that it was a chilly (by Taiwan standards) November day, and that it was not even 9 in the a.m., Luke and I ducked out of the line at the last minute (sorry Betty, Christina) and went to find Mike and Will, our friends from the Yingge branch.

We explored the park's four themed areas: Wild West, African Safari, South Pacific, and Persian Castle. I think my favorite was Wild West. Not only did it feature the park's only legitimate big steel coaster, the Screaming Condor, but it also held the Wild West show, which I will describe later. Will is a Texan, and he said the Wild West section of the town was literally identical to the small, Asian populated theme park town that he grew up in.

Anyways, the rides were all pretty standard stuff, there were thrill rides, a few kiddy rides, a big swinging ship ride, a free fall ride, and a nominal number of coasters. There were some interactive rides, and even a Budweiser Keg ride.



This ride almost made me vomit:



The zoo was pretty good. There were camel rides for NT$50, and there was a bicycle that you could peddle along a track over the monkey cages, and the bike itself looked like a baboon! Awesome!



Before we left, we went to the Wild West show. I couldn't understand it, since my Mandarin is still in its infancy, but I suspect that the real Wild West didn't have quite so many flamingos or parrots. I didn't take pictures of it, but imagine a big theatre with old west themed building facades as the backdrop, and a Taiwanese guy in a safari hat hearding flamingos, dogs, and parrots around a stage. That was the show in a nutshell.

We went for some dinner at a flower garden after the park, and that was the end of an interesting day out.

You can see the rest of the photos here:

Leofoo Village Trip 11-25-07

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Delinquency / Visitor

I'm posting from work because Luke and I have a delinquent internet bill out (which I subsequently lost.) I'm working to restore it, and getting back to my downloading of American shows that I miss. It's hard to know what is and isn't a bill when it's all in Chinese, and it's even harder to pay the one bill that isn't payable at the local 7-11.

In other news, Uncle Robert (Chicken Legs) Wyszynski is coming for a visit on December 8th. We will be riding a rickshaw through the black market (oh it's real) and into snake alley, where we will buy snake potions from gypsey pirates to enhance our respective vitalities. All of you in our family can expect shrunken heads and elephant tusks for Christmas.

Anyone who wants something from Taiwan should let me know, as I was going to try to send some small stuff back with him (therefore, no Uncle Tom, I can't get you that collection of Samurai swords.) And if you're feeling generous, I've linked my Amazon wishlist to the right, with books and DVDs and other small stuff that you can send me or not send me. I will try to teleconference in to the Wyszynski family Christmas party if Rich and Shoe can coordinate the technical aspect in Ohio.

Happy Thanksgiving!!

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Take Five...

I'll be updating the blog soon with some good stuff. Hopefully a few photos, the zombie play once I get around to uploading it, and maybe even an audio blog soon.

Until then, just enjoy this classic jazz by Dave Brubeck and his band. Hopefully it will help you relax on hump day and slide into the weekend.


Saturday, November 10, 2007

An Average Dinner

I've heard a few people from home request some details about Taiwanese food. This is definitely a country to visit if you like eating. There is literally restaurant after restaurant on many streets here, and most serve pretty traditional Taiwanese and Chinese style foods.

Friday night, after work, Luke and I went to one of your usual spots for a late dinner. we usually get the house specialties: dumplings (in this case, fried pan sticks) and beef noodle soup, a favorite among Taiwanese.

Along with my pan sticks, I decided to get a side dish. There are some side dishes that I've really liked: garlic pickles, pig ears, and marinated tofu chiefly. This night, however, I was in for a surprise.

fried dumplings and my side


Luke's beef noodle soup

What I thought I was ordering was a block of tofu (bean curd) and a tea egg-- an egg boiled in tea that has absorbed all the tea flavors, quite good. What I got was a block of tofu and some kind of Satan's Egg. Look at this thing!

As you can see, the white is a gelatenous semi-clear brown, like brown Jell-O. The yolk is half green sludge, half yellow goo. It tasted vaguely like an egg, but I didn't finish it. I asked a friend who has lived here for years what it was, and she said it's a preserved egg. She says she's heard that the best ones are preserved in horse urine. Mmmmm...

Believe me when I say that despite some of the weird stuff, most of the food here is really good.

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Grand Theft Auto: Taipei

I found this video of a police chase through Taipei and I thought I'd share.



It reminded me a lot of Grand Theft Auto on Playstation. The police chased this guy for miles and miles, had him in stopped traffic at least twice, and didn't break the window and drag him out. The chase went from city, to highway, back to city. They shot out his tires, but kept letting him drive. Every time he slowed down, they'd fire a volley of shots into this seemingly invincible Honda Hybrid (they build 'em tough in Japan.) Meanwhile the number of police cars (and scooters, ha!) kept multiplying until I figured the only logical next step would be to get a helicopter in on the action.

For those of you who can't stomach violence (or police inadequacy) they do eventually shoot and kill the guy at the end, but it took them long enough.

Sunday, November 4, 2007

Japanese War Criminals Alive and Kicking

Someone linked me to an article recently that describes the atrocities committed by the Imperial Japanese Navy during WWII. Such horrendous acts as blowing up Red Cross and merchant vessels and then slaughtering or torturing any floating survivors, cruel medical experiments, and methods of execution ranging from beheading to sledge hammer to the head to burying alive and crucifixion.

British Historian Mark Felton has written a book documenting the horrors of these acts, Slaughter At Sea: The Story Of Japan's Naval War Crimes.

From the article:

According to Felton, officers of the Imperial Japanese Navy ordered the deliberately sadistic murders of more than 20,000 Allied seamen and countless civilians in cold-blooded defiance of the Geneva Convention.

"Many of the Japanese sailors who committed such terrible deeds are still alive today," he said.

"No one and nothing has bothered these men in six decades. There is only one documented case of a German U-boat skipper being responsible for cold-blooded murder of survivors. In the Japanese Imperial Navy, it was official orders."


Imperial soldiers at work exterminating Allies

What bothers me is that even 60 years later, and after overwhelming historical evidence and eyewitness testimony, the Japanese government refuses to formally apologize for war crimes and does nothing to prosecute those responsible for them. Former Japanese PM Shinzo Abe refused to admit that the Imperial Army and its contractors kidnapped women from Korea and China and forced them into sexual servitude, and the true nature of the evil and hatred that existed in Japanese society during the time of the Empire is totally diluted or ignored in modern Japanese education.

As much shame and embarrassment as it may cause the Japanese to admit wrongdoing, it must be done if they are ever to be taken seriously as a peaceful nation or are given any of their military power back.

I'll pass, thanks.

Saturday, November 3, 2007

Good morning, Lucifer.

I'm constantly surprised by some of the English names that kids (and even adults) have here. At our kindergarten, we have a kid named Soccer, a kid named Seven, and another named Lucifer (really.) There are also students named Cicada, Virginie, Pony, Dabby, Queeny, and Alvis that roam the halls of Hess.

I've heard of friends teaching kids named Computer and Free Pizza (because 'everybody likes free pizza!') and I've met adults with such unusual English names as Ariel, Maximo, Buster, and Allister. I talked with a woman last night named Taco (I even checked the spelling.) I think with the kids, their English names are picked out by their parents or English teachers and they stick. With the adults though, they have the ability to pick their own names. After all, it's not like their English name is their legal name, but rather a convenience for English speaking Chinese when talking to other English speakers.

Still, with any sort of fluency with another language, you would think that they would pick names that sound a little more normal in conversation. I laugh every time I hear Christina tell little Lucifer to stop running or sit down, and I think about what it would be like for him if he lived the rest of his life with that unfortunate moniker.

Thursday, November 1, 2007

When bad pets go bad, dang!


I've seen this photo before, but I've never read the full back story.

May 18, 2007—A saltwater crocodile holds the forearm of a veterinarian following a grisly attack at Taiwan's Shoushan Zoo in April.

Good God. Remind me to go to the aquarium if I ever feel the need to see Taiwan's imported wildlife.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Chicken McCostumes

Sunday, October 28, 2007

Fright Night

Last night was the kindergarten Halloween party. Teacher Lilly and I were the hosts, and the night was a success, I think. The kids and their parents showed up, most in costume, and we scared them in our scary costumes before we put on our little spiel about being demons from the past who hid treasure in the school for the kids to find.

The kids went out around the block where we had different activities set up for them to do, and after each they were given a piece of the ancient treasure map. Then they came back to the school to find their treasure (candy.)

Here are some photos of the night:
Hess Kindy Halloween '07

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Rock lobster!

Luke and I were walking home after what I considered a successful but exhausting Friday of teaching last night, when we saw two Westerners sitting at the table in front of our apartment building. Of course, not thinking about it, we walked over and introduced ourselves and began talking to them. Our new friends turned out to be from Canada and South Africa, and are also teaching English at various spots around Linko. After talking about work and living in Taiwan versus back home and sipping beers for a couple of hours, we all got it in our heads to go to the beach.

This kind of surprised Luke and I because we didn't know we were very close to the beach. So after our friends went and got their scooters (mine died on me Thursday night) we jumped on the back and scooted off.

The drive was really nice. The air was cool and the weather was perfect for a late night drive. We wound our way down the mountain roads, and stopped to take in the scenery. We drove through forests, over bridges, and through a rather sizable cemetery. We stopped to take in a view of a coastal town, its lights reflecting off the Pacific Ocean, and then made our way down to the beach.

It wasn't a sandy beach, and it wasn't all that clean. Just a patch of rocky coast off the highway where we could enjoy the sound of waves crashing, and the firecracker sound of thousands of rocks and pebbles being turned over as the waves pulled back out to sea. We stood around there for a while laughing and talking, and then got on the scooters and headed home.

Our friends dropped us off here, we said our goodbyes and then we called it a night. It was a nice little adventure, though, especially since I left work only expecting to eat dinner and maybe watch a movie before bed, but little adventures like this are what make me glad I came here.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Almost Halloween

Halloween is coming up, and yes, it is celebrated here in Taiwan (at least in Hess it is.) It will be interesting to see what the Taiwanese version of Halloween is. I have my costume all ready to go for Saturday night's Kindergarten Halloween fest. I'm a demon who, along with Demon Teacher Luke, Demon Teacher Christina, and Demon Teacher Naledi, will be the keepers of the treasure (a big box o' candy) and the hosts of the evening's festivities.

In addition to my Kindergarteners, I've been trying to get my other students into the Halloween spirit. I've added monsters to some of the games we play, and I wrote a play about a Zombie invasion of Linko for one of my classes to perform at their graduation in a couple of weeks. I'll let you know how it goes, but the kids seem to like it so far.

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Feeling Bad

I'm sick. I was sick a couple days last week, and it's back this weekend. It's just the standard head cold with a cough kicker, but it means that I don't really get to enjoy my only days off of the week. I got some Chinese herbal medicine from the pharmacy downstairs. It's supposed to help with my cough. It's basically a box of ketchup packets filled with a sticky, syrupy brown goop. It tastes a bit like melted Ricola cough drops, and I'm supposed to eat them with warm water. I suppose they're helping, but that doesn't help my pyroclastic mucous flow or my pounding head or my achy joints.

Also, I woke up with bug bite (spider bites?) on my arms and shoulder and face. What kid of bulls**t is that? I hope tomorrow is better.

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Kindergarten Field Trip

Today was a special day for the kindergarteners at my school. Today they took a field trip. We started the day with the usual Exercise Time followed by Sharing Time, where the kids are encouraged to speak English to me and each other. We then took a bathroom break and headed out to the vans which would carry us to our destination.



Where would we go? The zoo? The park? A museum or exhibit? No, we went where all kindergarten classes of young achievers go: the local brewery.



Okay, so it's not strictly a beer brewery. They also distill sake and wine. And they make other things, too. Like crackers. And cigarettes.



We met Mr. Wang, who would shepard us through the labyrinth of laboratories, distilling machines, stock rooms, and factory areas. He spoke all in Chinese, so I really couldn't tell you if or how he managed to make the distilling process interesting to a group of five and six year olds. There was a flow chart involved, though. That much I know.

Along the way he showed us the various stages of the distilling process, from raw product to distillation, research and development to bottling and shipping. We even got to visit the factory store, which sells foods and cigarettes in addition to all the booze.









Overall, I enjoyed this trip. I don't really understand why we took little kids there, but I guess learning about the distillation of alcohol is just as educational as fine art or child-centered science.

Join me next month, on our next field trip. Where will we go? The crematorium perhaps? Or the taxi dispatch center? Or maybe the solid waste treatment plant? Who knows. Keep checking back.

Until then, you can check out all of the photos from today's trip here:
October '07 Hess Kindy Field Trip

Saturday, October 6, 2007

There are inspirational messages posted above some of the urinals in the men's room at Taipei Main Station. Here's one:



I love you mom, Whoo-Whoo!

Friday, October 5, 2007

Developing Story: The Apartment Fire

Luke and I finished off an average Friday at work, went shopping at Carrefour with our head English teacher, Christina, and shortly after returning home, had to evacuate the building because of a thick, acrid smoke that began creeping up the stairwell and into our apartment. The alarms went off, and we grabbed Jasper (our new feline roommate) and left the apartment.

Downstairs, in the lobby, there was pandemonium. Residents all brought their families and toy dogs down from their smoky domiciles and congregated in the one fresh sanctum of our entire community. It was kind of cool at first, seeing everyone in their night attire, everyone confused but happy that it wasn't their stuff on fire. We said hi to a couple of our neighbors and just chilled out in the lobby.

Then the firemen and police came in and started asking people questions, and everyone got restless, and I really just wanted to go back upstairs. After talking to Kevin, a guy who lives in the building who speaks good English (and who may be the resident's board president or something) I learned that a car in the B2 parking lot had caught fire. Lame. So I have to stand in the crowded lobby for an hour because someone's beater of a car couldn't even stand stationary without bursting into flames.

Add to this the fact that we're due in for a super-typhoon this weekend that will surely block any chance of having fun and you've got all the ingredients for a restless weekend at home.

Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Moon Festival

A couple weeks ago was moon festival, and I'm just now getting around to writing about it. Moon Festival or Mid-Autumn Festival is celebrated all over the Chinese speaking world by grilling out, getting the day off, and eating moon cakes and pomelos (like grapefruits.)

Since we got a four day weekend, Luke and I joined some friends in Puli for a weekend of camping. We took a bus down and camped from Sunday to Tuesday. Our guide for our excursions was Yuri Bradley Human (a.k.a. Y B Human?) a South African expat that we found to be quite eccentric. He took us on a hike up the middle of a river, kayaking on Sun Moon Lake, and paragliding from our campsite. You can see the photos here, and I'll add more as I get them.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Just for fun, here's a bunch of Polish people singing on the MRT in Taipei.



The Taiwanese guy in orange at about the 1:30 mark doesn't look amused.

我不能講中文。

Well, I've been abroad for three months now, and have been in Taiwan for almost two. It seems like longer, but it's really just the beginning. In three months I've lived in a couple of different countries, learned bits of a few different languages, ate all kinds of new foods, and met a whole lot of cool and interesting people. I have started a new job, and am working on making this place my home.

I am actually starting to feel more at home here. Even though I am still illiterate, and can speak slightly less Mandarin than a Taiwanese two-year old, I am beginning to feel less out of place. It will be a long and hard process I'm sure, but having a place to call home and a growing network of friends and associates is making the transition easier. I am also glad that I at least speak English. I can't imagine what it would be like to come here knowing only Russian or Spanish or Swahili or something. At least English is studied by enough people to make it easy for me to get by.

I was however, feeling kind of nostalgic for American stuff today, so I jumped on my scooter and headed over to the local McDonald's for lunch. Big Mac, fries, and just to add a little Asian flare, an iced tea. Then I went and signed up for a Blockbuster Video account. I miss Netflix a lot. Millions of DVDs to chose from, all kinds of films from the classic to the esoteric, and TV shows to boot. The local Blockbuster has an decent selection of new Western DVDs, but I'll still have to find a way to watch my shows from back home.

Friday, September 7, 2007

Thel Local Drinkeries

Yesterday was payday, so after a satisfying meal of beef soup and fried Korean pan sticks at our local dumpling joint, Luke and I decided to find a place to do some drinking. We had heard from coworkers and local acquaintances about perhaps the only bar in our area. We started walking, crossed the highway that divides our city of Linko from neighboring Gueishan, and found the bar straight away using our coworker's directions.

The place was called Tequila Music Bar. In external appearance, it was exactly the kind of bar you'd see on your local urban or suburban street corner. Flickering backlit sign, neon Bud and Miller ads, and posters covering the glass door and windows, blocking the view in or out. Even the inside was authentic Americana. Low lighting, a hardwood bar complete with stools and a brass footbar, and shelves full of Jim Beam, Jack Daniels, and Famous Grouse. A TV on the bar played downloaded Justin Timberlake music videos the whole time we were there. I guess that's what made it a "music bar". Luke and I took a seat at the bar and ordered some beers. At about NT200 ($6) each, these beers carried a Taipei premium price, but what did we care? We'd just gotten fat envelopes of cash and dammit, we wanted to drink in a bar.

Our bartender for the evening was a very cute young Taiwanese girl who introduced herself as Sa Sa (or Sasha, tee-hee.) She chatted with us for a few minutes before going back to bar tending for the other nine or so patrons. Almost immediately after her departure, another attractive woman came up and took a seat next to us. She introduced herself and chatted for a few minutes before returning to the company of a table full of businessmen. I was beginning to feel like a sexy, popular Norm from Cheers. A few minutes later another woman came and did the exact same. "Oh," we realized "it's one of those places."

It's not uncommon in Taiwan to enter a bar full of pretty girls dressed fairly skimpily, and a few average looking male patrons. It's exciting at first, seeing the ratio of goofy looking men to attractive women. But as one finds out quickly, these women are paid employees of the bar. Employees disguised as fellow customers, but who will only come sit or talk with you if you pay them (or at least buy them rounds of overpriced drinks which they undoubtedly take a cut of from the till.) They aren't prostitutes per se, at least not in the traditional sense.

Upon noticing this, the bar lost a lot of its appeal to us. I asked Sa Sa about the other girls and she admitted that they were "customer service" employees. She furrowed her brow and acted like I had just cracked DaVinci's code. We're not that lonely or desperate for female companionship. We decided to pay our tab and leave. Sa Sa tried to cornhole us out of an extra NT100, but we corrected her and she apologized through a plastic smile. That bitch.

Since we weren't yet sufficiently soused, we decided to go to a place we'd found a couple of weekends ago. This place is a large corrugated steel building in Gueishan that is full of food vendors and is open late nights. It looks like an old airplane hangar, and it's very much the kind of place you might stop to eat at at a county fair. The length of the walls is lined with food vendors of all varieties. Noodle vendors, seafood, pig parts, stinky tofu, and soup places. The middle of the building was dotted with folding tables and plastic stools. Along the back wall, a few rows of homemade arcade machines and basketball games kept the kids busy.

We got a couple of tall mugs from one of the beer vendors (at only NT120 for 1 liter) and took a seat. There were no miniskirts here. No Justin Timberlake. This was a working man's place. The customers here were all real people. No plastic smiles at this place. The smiles here were real. Smiles with blackened or missing teeth. Smiles blood red from constant betel nut chewing. The men were sweaty and tired from a long work week, and undoubtedly many of them would work again on Saturday and Sunday. Men without shoes, men with paint staining their hands and arms, or with scars and sores from working with their hands all day. Women with equally hardened features, yet still undeniably feminine, accompanied their men to this social mecca where everyone can eat and drink cheaply and without the social pressures faced by bar and club goers.

This place suited us much better. We drank, we ate, and we people watched. There were stray dogs and cats, there was no bathroom so we were forced to use the parking lot. There was no air conditioning, and occasionally someone fell off their stool or spilled a beer and everyone laughed. We loved it.

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Tofunky

One of the first foods I encountered on the streets of Taipei was stinky tofu (臭豆腐 cho dofu.) The Taiwanese love the smelly delicacy, which is basically tofu (bean curd) which has been fermented in a bath of vegetable brine for several months and then deep fried and served with chili sauce. You can smell the stinky tofu from down the street if a vendor is close, and it has a unique, powerfully pungent aroma that is unlike anything else I've smelled before. It tastes okay in my opinion, but the smell alone turns many people off.





I saw an interesting article on Google today wherein a stinky tofu vendor was actually fined by the government for the stench of his product.

The Taipei County Environmental Protection Bureau slapped the T$100,000 fine on the Kuang Tou Lao stinky tofu restaurant in Hsinchuang, a satellite city of Taipei, for reaching a stench level of 30, in an area where only a level 10 was permitted.

I'd like to have a look at this "stench level" scale and its various benchmarks. Is there a stenchometer? Do you know what the acceptable stench level in your hometown is? My guess is that Linko's is fairly high.

A lower court imposed the fine in April 2006 after receiving 16 complaints from neighbours who could not stand the odour, but restaurant owner Peng Tien-jung appealed the ruling. The Administrative High Court rejected Peng's appeal on Tuesday.

Peng protested the fine, saying for stinky tofu, the more "aromatic", the better quality. "Who wants to eat stinky tofu that does not stink?" he asked environment inspectors.


Indeed, who would eat just regular, non-stinky tofu?

Cable TV channel TVBS reported that Kuang Tou Lao is not the smelliest stinky tofu restaurant in Taipei. TVBS showed an unnamed stinky tofu vendor who rubs a type of smelly gravel onto the tofu to make it more pungent.

Cat litter?

All in all, it's good to see the authorities cracking down on smell pollution here in Taiwan. Now if only they would do something about the air pollution, water pollution, constant loud noises, other bad smells, and terrible traffic...

Saturday, September 1, 2007

WTF Japan?

The folks over at cNet's Crave blog have posted a promo video for Sony's new executive tech toy, the 'Rolly'. It's exact functions and purpose are still open to speculation, as Sony hasn't released much but a teaser video, but it appears to be some kind of rolling, flashing, spinning football shaped thing that 'dances' along to music, and possibly does other stuff too. Here's the video, which I actually find quite funny.



My only question is "why?" Why does the world need this? At least their robotic dog could serve as a poop free companion to those who for whatever reason can't get a real pooch. All I can imagine this thing doing is rolling around your house, freaking out your cat, and perhaps getting into a fight with your Roomba. Actually, since Battle Bots went off the air, I've been jonseing for a good robot v. robot deathmatch. Let's see what you got, Sony.

Crave also reports that Taiwanese laptop manufacturer Acer is set to buy Gateway, which will make the company the world's third largest PC maker. Pretty cool, nice going Taiwan.

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Goodbye, Sweeite

Mary "Sweetie" Walsh, my maternal grandmother, died today in Cleveland. After years of living with Alzheimer's Disease, she passed away in hospice care surrounded by her children. Ever since the death of her husband, my Grandpa Bill, Sweetie had been fading farther and farther from the woman I knew as Grandma as a kid.

The Sweetie Walsh that I knew as a kid was a truly jolly woman. I remember the smells and the feelings associated with being at her house. There were always cooking smells. She was always cooking something, more often than not in the oven, so it was always a surprise to see what she'd pull out after the timer dinged. I remember the smell of old things. She had a basement, a second floor, and closets full of old things. Things from her children's childhoods. Things from the '50s and '60s. Things that my brothers and I used to pull out, try on, play with, and occasionally make a mess of. I suppose she treasured these things, or maybe growing up in the post depression era taught her not to throw anything out, lest it be needed later.

I remember the feel of her velveteen sofa. One of my favorite pastimes when visiting grandma was napping. My Grandpa Bill taught me how to nap. Before that, I thought that napping had to be done in bed, but Grandpa showed me that naps could be taken on the sofa, or even sitting in a chair in front of the TV.

Grandma would always spoil us too. I remember her ice cream sundaes as some of the best I've ever had. We had ice cream at home occasionally, sure. But at Grandma's house you could always count on ice cream with chocolate syrup, sprinkles, melted peanut butter, and very often there were some Spanish peanuts thrown into the mix. Ole! And she would make a damn fine root beer float, too.

One of the things I remember best about my grandma is her sense of humor. She always knew how to make me laugh. I'm sure when I was a baby she gave me raspberries on my tummy and played peek-a-boo, but even as I grew older, I recognized the savvy about her that, when combined with her sweetness, made it hard for anyone to resist her charm by not smiling or laughing.

All the Christmases where she got me the perfect gift and beamed as I opened it, all the baptisms and weddings where she wore her best dress and was the warm center of the family that everyone gathered around. All of the nights where she gave me a bath and then sang to me as I tried my best to go to sleep in the old scary back room of her house, and all of the little looks of fondness and love that she gave so freely every day. These are the things I will forever remember of my Grandma.

I love you, Grandma Sweetie, and I will miss you.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

TV break

I got the second half of the day off work today, so I thought I'd at least be productive and film myself watching TV. Here's what's on in Taiwan.




A few nights ago, I saw our former next door neighbor, Judge Lyn Toler, on Larry King Live. It was kind of neat seeing someone I know on a channel I could understand all the way over here.

Also, I changed the template of this page. Bluer, huh?

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Mini Me

Last week, I got a new student in my Kindergarten class. He of course can't speak any English, and he's the only kid in the class without a Western name. Yilun (I know this is how it's spelled because I was charged with the task of transliterating his name-- like I'm supposed to know) is a head taller than all of the other kids and is happy to sit there and chatter off in Chinese because he doesn't know what the rest of us are talking about. He cried for about five minutes on the first day, mostly due to the fact that he was starting school in a strange place, with strange kids (some of them are very strange) and a big hairy scary Westerner teaching him. He got over it remarkably quickly, though and is now very content in class.

The thing about Yilun is that he's actually a pretty bright kid. He speaks almost no English, but the phrases he knows ("thank you", "no", "may I go to the bathroom?") he uses willingly, in a loud voice, and with surprisingly fluent pronunciation. He sometimes gets lost in class procedure and protocol, but to his credit, it is a bit complicated and not at all standardized.

At first I thought of him as just kind of an odd amusement. The one that stands out. I've realized recently, after comparing his English skills with my Chinese, that his experience in Hess Kindergarten is actually a microcosm of my experience in Taiwan.

I speak only a few key phrases of Mandarin (almost the same ones as Yilun, plus "one beer please") and like Yilun, I'm about a head taller than almost everyone else. I was a little unhappy at first too. It's a big adjustment, and it's not always easy being in a new place with strangers. Yilun is encouraged to speak English while I am teaching, but he gets to speak Chinese the rest of the day. In that sense we differ. I get to speak English with only a handful of people every day. Those I work with, those I talk to on the phone, and the few English speaking people I've met here.

I hope both Yilun and I can learn to cope with learning a new language and being forced to speak it as a matter of conformity. It will probably be easier for him, with that sponge-like brain that most kids have. Mine is already full of useless knowledge like how many ounces are in a pound, and the theme song to Gilligan's Island, but I hope to be able to pick up at least enough Chinese so that I don't look like a kindergartener on his first day of class.

Monday, August 27, 2007

Be Shan Yuan Mountain hike

On Saturday, Luke and I , along with our friends Lisa and Ryan, went on a hike down Bi Shan Yuan Mountain. Our cab driver suggested that we hike down instead of up, and being as we were still kind of hung over from a Friday night on the town, we agreed. Here are some photos I took along the way. Excuse the quality of some of them, as I forgot my digital camera at home and had to use my cell phone.

Be sure to read the captions (I fixed the pictures)

Taipei - Be Shan Yuan Mountain

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Life in Linko

We have been living in Linko (or Linkou, or Lin'Ko or other transliterations) now for a few weeks. We got an apartment, and are working almost every day. We have yet to really get a good lay of the land, as transportation is difficult without scooters. I have uploaded some photos of our neighborhood, our place, and our workplace. Be sure to read the captions.

Linko

Monday, August 13, 2007

Teacher Cho and Teacher Lu

That's what our names sounded like from the kids at first. Ha!

I bet you thought I was abducted by red agents. No, actually I've just been busy. Luke and I graduated training (yay!) and were tossed out of the proverbial frying pan (or wok, whichever) and into the fire.

Last Wednesday, our branch's head English teacher, Christina, picked us up in Taipei and droove us to our branch here in Linkou, Taipei County. I wouldn't call the city beautiful, exactly. It's a developing satellite town about 30 minutes into the mountains South of Taipei. Being that it's still developing, there are apartment buildings going up all over and constant construction noises. Of the city's seven numbered Streets (Wen Hua 1st, 2nd, 3rd...) only two or three have anything of interest yet. The rest are still being built up. Also, there are a lot of stray dogs, which makes me a bit nervous, but it's not so bad.

Upon arriving here, Christina showed us around our branch school. Luke and I are two of the five NSTs (Native Speaking Teachers) at the Linko branch of Hess. The school is three floors of classrooms, with an open floor space in the middle of each floor. Kindergarten is on the bottom floor, and Luke and I both teach kindy every morning for two hours, with another two two-hour classes in the afternoons on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday.

I didn't know we would be in for such a rough start. I love my kids, but we have been working very hard the past few days to try to keep up with our lesson planning and homework grading. We have been putting in twelve hour days today and yesterday, and we're looking forward to the weekend (and our first payday next month.)

Also on Wednesday we shopped for, signed a lease for, and moved into our apartment. Real estate works fast like that in Taiwan. We have a two bedroom flat on the ninth floor of a building that looks way too nice for the likes of us. Secrity guards, marble lobby, underground garage, billiards, karaoke, and workout rooms, and a view of Taipei 101, all for a fraction of what we were paying for a dirty ranch style house in Oxford with a view of the feed store.

Pictures will come soon, as we don't yet have the internet installed in our apartment (because we can't speak Chinese. 'Internetto' is apparently not Chinese for the Internet.) I'm typing this from work, and I'm pretty busy, so I gotta go.

If anyone wants to write us or send us a care package (check postage first though, please) Our address is:

Luke McClung/ Joe Wyszynski
9th floor, No. 29, Gong Yuan Road, Lin Ko County, Taipei County, TAIWAN

Monday, August 6, 2007

Almost a Teacher

We are on our last day of TEFL training, and Luke and I will be heading out to Linko to meet our coworkers at our branch. Training has been interesting, sometimes boring, but often fun, as we've met a lot of cool people from other English speaking countries. Still, I find myself feeling like I don't really know anything about Taiwan or its people. We've been a kind of social bubble of sorts the past week and a half, as we have been staying in a hotel, living and working, and going out with other English speakers. Even though we may be from opposite corners of the world (North America, UK, South Africa, Oceania) we have a lot in common with our language, traditions, and culture.

It will be a total immersion experience after tomorrow. Luke and I will be living on our own, in an apartment building with hundreds of locals. We will be 2/5 of the English speaking staff at our branch. We will ave to learn how o eat, converse, get transportation, and live our daily lives without the crutch of easy communication. I think I'm up to it, and I look forward to seeing more of this island, which will be my home for the next year or more.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

ESL Training/ 7-Eleven hopping

We've been doing our ESL (English as a Second Language) Instructor training pretty much nonstop since Sunday. The training consists of us sitting in a lecture hall on the fifth floor of the Hess building, which is about three blocks from our hotel. We start every morning at 9, and we usually finish it up around 6:30.

While we're there, we sit through lectures and demonstrations about how to teach English to kids who may not know much. The last couple of days, we've been concentrating on buxiban (BOO-shee-bon) or kindergarten classes. We've been instructed on the proper way to introduce kids to the course material (vocab words, phonics, numbers, etc.) and then how to incorporate these things into fun songs and games to play with the kids to help them learn.

We have to listen and follow along in our training books, and then we are asked to demonstrate the skills ourselves. We had a practice demo today in which my group had to figure out a way to teach kids the vocabulary and simple choreography for the song "Ten in the Bed" (you know, "and the little one said, 'roll over!'") We did pretty well, so I'm confidant that our real test tomorrow morning will go well.

We've been attending these sessions all day, so it's been nice having evenings to enjoy. We've been sticking close to home, since we really don't have the time to go too far into the city. The last couple of nights, Luke, Mike (an ESL trainee from Canada) and I have gone '7-Eleven hopping'. Basically, this consists of walking from one 7-Eleven store to the next (never more than a couple blocks) and getting a beer at each one. We tried to get lost a few times, just for the hell of it, and somehow miraculously ended up running into our hotel twice before finally managing to get lost. We then took a cab home for the amazingly low price of $NT90 ($3US.)

We have Saturday off, so I plan on doing something fun Friday night and Saturday. More pics to come.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Arrival

I've arrived in Taipei. After a long flight from London To Malaysia (including a stopover in Kuala Lumpur,) Luke and I arrived in Taipei late Thirsday night, both looking quite disheveled and smelling like homeless people.

We checked into out hotel (the Golden China Hotel) and went right to sleep. The next morning, we went down to our complementary buffet breakfast and met some of the other Hess teachers. We walked around the city and saw some of the sights, including a temple, a night market, and some of the local landmarks like Taipei 101, the world's tallest building.




Lunch one day



Taipei 101 from down the street

Taipei from the top of 101


Me with Damper Baby, the official mascot of Taipei 101.


We started training today, and so far so good. We took a quick tour of the city, and had lunch. Then off to Hess headquarters, where we had icebreakers, informational presentations, and a brief Mandarin lesson.

So far, I really like Taipei and the company. It all seems very overwhelming, but in a good way.